Vroom - Guide

(A Drivethru Guide to Arcade Mode - By lifeschool)

Scores: 
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These are the scores you can expect to get out of the game in Arcade Mode (based on 
my own scores), so that you can judge how competitive you are. In the first column 
we see the ‘Average Score’ for each track – this is not the minimum score you can 
achieve in order to qualify, this is an average score based on what an average play
will yield. Next to this is the highest potential Maximum Score the best drivers 
could hope to gain from each track, based on my own highest scoring experiences. In 
the third column is a rolling score based on the Average Scores for each track, and 
in the final column is the Maximum Rolling Score; gained by successfully achieving 
the highest possible scores over the whole season. This theoretically means the very 
highest final score would be in the region of 92 thousand points. 

Track 1
Average Score: 15k Maximum Score: 18k+ Av Rolling Score: 15k Max Rolling Score: 18k 

Track 2: 
Average Score: 15k Maximum Score: 20k+ Av Rolling Score: 30k Max Rolling Score: 38k 

Track 3:
Average Score: 10k Maximum Score: 13k+ Av Rolling Score: 40k Max Rolling Score: 51k 

Track 4: 
Average Score: 12k Maximum Score: 16k+ Av Rolling Score: 52k Max Rolling Score: 67k 

Track 5: 
Average Score: 10k Maximum Score: 12k+ Av Rolling Score: 62k Max Rolling Score: 79k 

Track 6: 
Average Score: 12k Maximum Score: 13k+ Av Rolling Score: 74k Max Rolling Score: 92k 


How to Suck Eggs:- The Six Golden Rules of Driving 
-------------------------------------------------- 

This goes for all driving games, not just this one.

Rule 1: In order to finish first, first you have to finish! In other words, it 
doesn’t matter how quickly or slowly you get around the tracks, as long as you get 
around them and qualify for the next race. It’s all well and good hammering around 
the tracks to gain positions, but too many crashes and you risk having to take an 
early bath - which is never good. 

Rule 2: Drive for the Road! It doesn’t matter who or what is in front of you, 
behind you, or to the sides, the track is what matters – and if you ignore this 
rule you’ll just end up crashing and having to waste time catching up. So, 
learning the track is your no.1 priority. If you know the ins and outs of the track, 
yes it is possible to pull off some amazing kamikaze manoeuvres; but track knowledge 
is the key which enables late braking, off-road driving and all the rest of it to be 
gained through experience.

Ignore the track at your peril! 

Rule 3: Brake before the bend and accelerate through the apex. This is as opposed to 
braking ON the bend and trying to sort it out as you go around it. Braking early 
means you can get back on the power faster, i.e. as you enter the corner - and also 
means you can align yourself cleanly with the apex (the racing line) as you smoothly 
enter and exit a bend. If you are still braking by the time the road begins to turn, 
you’ve already lost the advantage. If you are not fully back on the power before the 
bend ends, you’ve lost the pace. 

Rule 4: Take care of your vehicle. This is similar to rule 1 in that you have to 
make sure you finish regardless of your position. In Vroom this basically means 
taking care of the tyres - or you’ll have to waste valuable time and places by 
pitting. If your T light goes yellow, slow down, avoid everything (even if it means 
losing places) and avoid screeching the tires, anywhere! With these precautions, 
there is no reason why you can’t survive a whole lap (or longer) on duff tyres, and 
without having to pit. However, it is far better to drive carefully in the first 
place in order to avoid these measures. 

Rule 5: Anticipate the other drivers. As you will see later in this guide, you can 
‘dummy’ the other cars by holding steady in one lane before dashing across to 
another at the last moment. For this reason, it is usually best to approach all the 
cars from directly behind so that they cannot cut you off as you move by them. If 
you consider it too dangerous to pass at a particular spot, drop the revs and wait 
until you can pass cleanly – even if this means loitering behind them a little while 
longer. It is better to gain a place eventually than crash into the back of someone 
through sheer frustration. 

Rule 6: Keep your eyes on the Horizon. That’s right, a good driver will already be 
looking for the next bend or curve of the road well in advance of the current 
situation, and this includes calculating when to pass, and judging race distances to 
other drivers. The horizon is also the place where we will see the deadenders 
approaching – otherwise it will be too late to do anything about it – so by all 
means try to instinctively judge the foreground while keeping your sights sharply 
focused on the background. 


General Tips: 
---------------- 
By far the most important first target from a scores point-of-view is to have a great 
start – passing all six grid cars by the first bend of any course (or at least just 
after it). There are two types of grid start: – the first (Plan 'A') is when all the 
cars are spread out, and it is possible to weave between them; and as a precaution to 
this scenario it is always best to start your GP at full revs and with full steering 
lock to the right. 

At the green light, you’ll pass the first car on the right; then you can keep fairly 
central to the track and simply weave left and right to make your way through the 
field. If this fails (because the cars are too closely packed together), then it’s 
time for plan B – which is to lose a few revs, stick close to the back markers by 
tap-tap-tapping the controller forwards, and waiting for a gap to appear. The Plan A 
vs Plan B aspect will appear at random, depending on how the other cars get away from 
the line. On GP#1 it is also possible to dive over to the pit lane and use this to 
get past the pack. 

The other drivers will always weave to the side of the road you are on, so it is 
always best to approach the other cars from directly behind and dodge out at almost 
the last moment. If you don’t, a car will have plenty of time to block you mid-pass; 
although you can use this to your advantage if you want to make the opponent weave 
to the wrong side of the track so you can pass more easily. 

Unbelievably, it is possible to pass Any number of cars on Any part of Any track (you 
might want to read that again!) – even on the narrowest narrow sections, and even on 
the hardest and worst of all the hairpin bends - although putting this into practice 
is often more luck over judgement. If you come up to a large crowd of drivers all 
falling over each other for positions, it may be wise to think about passing the 
whole group by driving onto the grass. There are always a few places to do this on 
any course, and it’s the drivers job to spot these and make use of them in an 
emergency. 

Of course sometimes you will come up against an insanely slow car blocking your way. 
If you have the reactions of a fighter pilot, you can brake or swerve to one side to 
miss it, but otherwise your gonna bump. These cases are all about damage limitation; 
so if you can brake – do so – as this will mean less waiting time to get the wheels 
rolling again. However, try to avoid taking wild and risky manoeuvres to get past 
these, as colliding with the road-side barriers will leave you with a long waiting 
time and huge frustration. Similarly, try to pass each car cleanly – even if it 
means waiting for a corner to end or the road to open out a bit. There is nothing 
worse then being behind a slow car, but if you crash trying to pass it, you’ll only 
be damaging your tyres and time. 

On the subject of tyres, watch out for the T indicator light if you crash more than 
5 or 6 times during the race. Look out for it as you approach the pits on lap 3. If 
you gain a yellow light on the last lap (visually lap 4), then just slow down and 
avoid everything – including ragging it around the bends. Kid gloves will usually 
nurse a car home. Lastly, the biggest scores can be found after successfully 
accomplishing all three ‘stripes’ of cars on the display board: e.g. when the 
display board is full – as passing new cars on a full table gives you x2 score. 


A Further Note About Dead-enders: 
---------------------------------

As mentioned above, sometimes you will come up against insanely slow cars; which I 
like to call Dead-enders. These are triggered if the computer thinks the driver is 
doing very well, and are based on a predictability and competitiveness ratio. 
Predictability: If you don’t find any deadenders on the first track, there is a 
good change you will not find any (or many) on the others. If you find a lot on the 
first course, there is a good chance you’ll be plagued by them over the rest. 
Competitiveness: If you do very well, you'll get deadenders. If you don’t do well in 
general, the ratio of this happening may be lower; as the computer will usually 
detect this and make the game easier to compensate for bad driving. Strangely, if 
you do get past a deadender, the computer will throw another one at you pretty 
quickly – and will keep doing this at an ever increasing rate, over and over!, until 
you crash into one; and then the ‘competitiveness ratio’ will be lowered. However, 
if the player does manage to get past them all; block after block after block; the 
computer will recognise that the player is doing exceptionally well – and will scale 
down this ratio so that these idiots won’t interfere with a potentially high scoring 
run ..so play badly or brilliantly. 


A Track by Track Guide: 
----------------------- 

GP1 – Japan 
This course is very easy, and very fast, and the player only needs to get by 7 cars 
to qualify. Every corner can be taken flat out at full speed – except the first 
corner. As you approach the first corner, brake for one whole second here just as 
you are about to go under the final arrow sign, and just enough to knock it down a 
gear. On a flying lap, you might want to pull back for a second-and-a-half or two 
seconds - just to make sure. This corner can be tackled just as easily in high 4th 
gear as low 5th – just make sure you’re not in 6th! As soon as the corner begins to 
turn you can hammer full throttle again, and the tyres should take car of the rest. 
Then you’ll jog to the left, through a tunnel and up a hill. Take care not to take 
risks as the road climbs the hill, or try to overtake on the right if you can (never 
on the left). The road will then drop down into a dip with a wide left-hander at the 
bottom. At the dip, keep the controller pulled to the left to ‘lean in’ to the bend, 
aim for the apex early and let the tyres screech you around it. 

You’ll drop a few revs here but you can keep it flat in 6th all the way. You can 
then pass a few cars on a small straight section ahead before the hill drops down 
again and back up to a narrow section. Drop back behind any car perched in the 
narrows and immediately dummy down to the left to pass it as the road sweeps to the 
right. The track will then open out as we move along the start straight. 

GP2 – Austria 
You should be able to pass all the grid cars as the road opens out after the start, 
even if this means dropping back to let them spread out. Follow the apex through 
from the first ‘dummy’ left-hander, dab on the brakes just before the road turns, 
and roll the car into the tight right-hander which follows. This bend is typically 
a 5th gear candidate (although I’ve done it in 4th and 6th). Take as many cars as 
you can here before the road narrows ahead – and don’t worry too much about the 
tyres unless you know you will need them in good health later. After the narrows, 
it is may be helpful to dab the brakes just a little (or ease off just a little) 
before the sweeping left-hander. You can overtake cars using any of the three lanes 
here – even the outside lane if you drift. After this, lean to the right as the road 
will do a fast wiggle in this direction. Watch out who is on the hill in front of 
you, and gauge passing distances accordingly. At the top of the hill is a sharp 
right, so knock it down to 4th gear as close to the second overhead sign as possible 
– just as you are about to go under it. Hold right, and tap-tap-tap the controller 
forward to maintain the revs but not overkill the speed. After the tunnel is a nice 
long straight with the pits, followed by an easy right-hander. It is possible to 
take this flat in 6th, but I’d recommend instigating a turbo-quick back/forward 
motion on the controller just to knock the top speed off just before you turn. Any 
pile-ups and deadenders will be evident on this final hill climb, and there is 
plenty of room to take them on the grass to the left if you need to pull an 
emergency passing stunt. It is also usually helpful to dab the brakes quickly again 
before the final turn leading to the start straight; as it is deceptively sharp at 
high speeds. 

GP3 – France 
There is a high chance the grid will be a Plan B start for this, so drop back and 
wait for the blue and red cars to sway to the left so you can dive in on the right. 
Then jump over to the left again. Try to take the green and the first red car before 
the hill begins to dip; as this dip is the warning to SLOW DOWN as you go through 
the narrow hairpin. The entry to this hairpin is all-important; even if it means 
taking the foot off the gas and just steering around it. 2nd gear should be optimal 
here, and slower is most definitely better. The road will then go to the right, and 
you can pile on the speed/pressure as it does so – leaning to the right until the 
road straightens up. As you make your way up the hill, remember that it is better 
to pass cleanly - even if it means slowing down and waiting for the road to open out. 
The hill also has a blind crest - so watch out for deadenders as you get over the 
top. After a small flat stretch, the road will bend sharply to the right. This bend 
(traffic permitting) can be taken FLAT IN TOP – just make sure you lean in to grab 
the apex just before it turns – almost heading straight towards the inside of the 
corner itself – and the road will then carry you around it. This manoeuvre results 
in a nice slingshot effect as you go down the hill towards the complex. As the hill 
bottoms out, you may want to snatch the brakes for half-a-second while leaning to 
the right – and KEEP leaning to the right all the way around this bend – balancing 
the power if you have to. If you’re brave, you can do this FLAT in top gear – but 
you’ll have to lean into it exceptionally early! This bend also has a kick in it’s 
tail, so after a hair-raising skid there is a good chance you’ll step on to the 
grass on the left - but actually crashing on this bend is rare unless you are also 
trying to avoid traffic. You’ll then be looking at a tight left-hander before the 
pits. Again, dab the brakes or drop down into 5th for this one, and head for the 
right-hand lane to avoid any traffic. For the very brave, this can be done FLAT OUT 
– but again you’ll have to lean into the very heart of the bend early, and you’ll 
also be at the mercy of any slow traffic. The final bend can then be taken flat as 
you return to the start straight. 

GP4 – Britain 
Silverstone is quite forgiving after the narrowing headaches of France. From the 
start, head off down the hill and dab the brakes before the bend to keep control as 
you go around it. You’ll have to dab on a hit harder on a flying lap, but not enough 
to actually gear down to 5th - as this is definitely a 6th gear bend. The road 
weaves a little here, so avoid taking cars from the left, or watch out for the trees 
approaching on the right. The road will then jog over to the left, before heading 
down to the tightest bend on the track. Pull the controller back for at least one 
whole second here to make sure you get around it, even if this means going down to 
4th gear – but 5th should get the job done. On we go, along a very easy back-straight 
as we pass the pits - leading to an easy curve to the right. As this curve 
approaches, do another turbo-quick back/forward movement to shave the top speed off 
the car just before you go around it. The track will soon straighten up and stretch 
out for yet another fast section, where passing is made easy. A number of yellow 
signs herald the approach of a sweeping right-hander; which can always to taken FLAT 
IN TOP as long as you lean to the right in advance; and this will give you another 
nice slingshot effect under the bridge. Still gunning it flat-out, we jog smartly 
around a (cuttable) left, and down a small hill. Here you will notice plenty of 
grass space to the left in case you need to pass any deadending pile-ups. At the 
bottom of the hill is the second tricky part of the track – a left/right chicane. 
Drop down into 4th before the chicane and power yourself though it. With skill, you 
can actually do this comfortably in mid/high 5th. Then it’s back to the home straight. 

GP5 – Sweden 
This is a very fast course, so be prepared for a rough ride. The thing to remember 
about Sweden (unlike the other courses), is that just one big mistake will write you 
out of the championship - as there simply will not be enough cars ahead of you to 
catch up in time. A few small mistakes are no problem, but in general, this whole 
course must be driven FLAT and WITHOUT CRASHING! That’s a tall order. From the start, 
plan B will most likely be in action, so hang directly behind the blue car and wait 
for it to jog left so you can drive through on the right. The road immediately turns 
into a tight right-hand corner as we go between two green hills and down into a dip; 
and this corner - like every other corner at Sweden (except perhaps the last corner) 
- must be driven FLAT. With any luck, there will be an opening between the green and 
red cars so you can just squeeze in between them. If not, try to swerve right (or 
keep left) to pass them - but be in the LEFT-hand lane in time for the next bend – a 
left-hander. With skill, you can let the car slide naturally over into the right-hand 
lane to pass the traffic on this section, but otherwise keep leaning to the left. 
Then an identical left-hand corner comes up, before a narrow section appears. Try to 
snatch the lead before the narrows if you can; as although it is possible to pass in 
the narrows (by straddling the types – which you can pass straight through), it is 
not recommended. Next we launch into another left-hander; where it is often possible 
to pass a car on either side. Then a long sweep to the right appears as the road dips 
a little, so lean over to the right nice and early and simply let the types do the 
screeching. Or perhaps you may wish to drop a gear? There is no clear speed advange 
here either way, but regardless - you’ll end up in 5th at this point. A second 
sweeping curve to the right follows; so keep leaning to the right; and this will 
shortly lead to a left bend and under the bridge. Again – keep it flat!! Immediately 
after the bridge(!) we follow a yet another sweeping curve to the right – which is 
the last easy place to pass a car before the road weaves all over the place as we 
head up the hill. Driving on this section is easy – just keep it in the middle of the 
track and let the road do its thing. Passing cars on this section is difficult; and 
not helped in the least by the blind hill which looms ahead. Keep flat and wait for 
the road to widen as you reach the crest. After the short straight, is is best to dab 
the brakes just to shave the top speed off as you lean to the right to tackle the 
penultimate sharp right-hander. If you are very skilled, you can do this sharp bend 
flat in top gear for another slingshot – but this is quite hard and not really 
recommended. Then we reach the only tricky bend on this course, a 5th gear left/right 
chicane just before the start/finish straight. You can try to cut it at top speed if 
you’re exceptionally good - and this is certainly possible - but why risk a major 
crash? Remember, one serious crash and that’s the end of your chance to qualify! Best 
to drop it into 5th and make sure it gets done. Then it’s back to the start straight. 
Also remember to take the first bend (as you go around the track again) in TOP GEAR 
and FLAT by leaning hard and early to the right, e.g, almost as soon as the road dips 
(and as you go under the bridge) at the end of the start/finish straight. Then it’s 
TOP and FLAT all the way around! 

GP6 – USA 
If you thought Sweden was fast – think again, ‘cus Watkins Glen is even faster! A 
plan B start is almost certainly the case here, so again, hang back by 
tap-tap-tapping the throttle, keep to the left and dodge to the right as soon as a 
gap appears. But not too much! - because a very nasty rock hangs over the right-hand 
edge of this sweeping right-hander - just in case you should put a wheel off the 
black stuff. A short straight is followed by a harsh downhill hairpin complex – 
which starts to sweep right before cornering sharply to the left. As soon as the 
road begins to dip and sweep to the right (before the hairpin), you must already be 
feathering the controller and slowing down so that your car will be slow enough to 
make the left. This is a 4th gear corner (or 3rd gear to make absolutely sure), but 
never go higher than 4th unless you absolutely know your stuff! An easy sweep to the 
right then opens the way towards a narrow section - so get in lane and hang back 
until the road widens a little. The track then drops down a long hill (which also 
contains the pits) and wiggles as it starts to climb back up again. All of this can 
be taken FLAT OUT in top gear, and the hill itself will slow the car down all by 
itself. However, if you have managed to get beyond the grid cars by now (and I hope 
you have - or you may not qualify), then you can expect a nasty dead-ending green car 
to appear as you climb the hill. If you manage to weave by this, watch out for an 
even slower(!) red car to follow. Of course, if you aren’t driving so well, these 
cars may not even appear. Over the crest of the hill, the track jumps over to the 
left around a top gear, FLAT OUT (cuttable) left-hander, before a short straight. 
After the straight, we find the road bending around a long sweep to the right. It is 
best to perform a quick back/forward movement here just to take the very top speed 
off before you take the corner. There is another rock sticking out into the track on 
the right here, so be careful. Then after a very fast wiggle, the road will open out 
wide before dropping down-hill again towards another tough corner – which sharply 
cuts to the right. As you go down the hill towards this menace, you’ll notice the 
track levels off ever so slightly before dropping down again for the corner. You will 
also notice a red sign on the left here as you pass this spot. Apply the brakes HERE 
– and HARD (for a good second-and-a-half) if you want to make it in one piece. It’s 
a 3rd gear corner, make no mistake about it, and you may find yourself on the ragged 
edge going around this beast. But before you can pat yourself on the back, you’ll see 
a sharp left up ahead! Do another skilled braking action here for half-a-second to 
make sure the car will make the corner; but having reached this speed, hammer down 
the power as you tour around it to the left. The final bends are all top speed, top 
gear affairs – first to the left, than sweeping to the right over the start/finish 
line – and action doesn’t slow down again until the road dips in preparation for that 
tricky hairpin much later down the road. You’re gonna have to do this – cleanly and 
without crashing – for all five laps if you want to complete the game. 

Good Luck